When people think of the Maldives, they imagine sun-drenched beaches—places where fashion effortlessly blends with the tropical landscape. But beyond the breezy resort wear that often accompanies these island getaways, the Maldives is home to a rich cultural heritage. At the heart of this cultural richness lies the Dhivehi Libaas and its intricate Kasabu Bovalhu, which represent a fascinating cultural melting point of Maldivian tradition.

We had the pleasure of exploring this cultural gem with Fathimath Naduha AbdulMuhsin (@Gathaatales), a radiographer turned expert on the Kasabu collar. Naduha’s dedication to preserving and teaching the art of this remarkable attire provides a deeper understanding of its historical and cultural significance.

The Dhivehi Libaas, translating to Maldives Dress, is a knee-length garment featuring long sleeves and an underskirt (Feyli). The centerpiece of this attire is the Kasabu Bovalhu, an intricately embroidered neckline made from a blend of imported cotton, silk, and metallic threads. Known as Kasabu Viyun, this embroidery showcases a dazzling array of colors—green, gold, silver, red, and black—arranged in elaborate designs that reflect the fusion of cultural influences.

The craftsmanship of the Kasabu Bovalhu involves a distinctive set of tools: a short wooden vessel called a Gathaa Fai, a cloth cushion known as the Gathaafaige Boa for securing the threads, and about 34 wooden weights—sometimes fashioned from fish bones—to stabilize the threads. Additionally, the process incorporates three distinct ribbons: Hiru, Bagiyaa, and Rodhigandu.

Naduha’s insights reveal that the art of creating Kasabu and Libaas has been an integral part of Maldivian culture for generations. This traditional craftsmanship, passed down through families and communities, served as both a means of relaxation and a deep connection to cultural heritage. Her use of X-ray imaging to study a “Ranrihi” libaas uncovered the historical use of precious metals like silver and gold, further illuminating the garment’s rich legacy.

Situated in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives has long been a crossroads of Eastern and Western influences. This unique geographical position has enabled the Kasabu Bovalhu to evolve into a garment that embodies a vibrant cultural melting point. Theories suggest connections to Egyptian craftsmanship, African artistic traditions, and Middle Eastern and North African Bedouin weaving techniques, illustrating a dynamic cultural integration.

Trade with regions such as the Indian subcontinent and the Middle East has played a significant role in shaping the design of the Kasabu Bovalhu. Although older libaas may feature different color patterns and techniques, the core pattern of the Kasabu Bovalhu has remained consistent, showcasing its enduring significance and cultural unity.

According to Ahmed Shafeeq’s writings, the Kasabu Bovalhu, first worn by Radhun Muizzuddheen’s Kalhu Gomaa, has preserved its design since the 19th century. Historical photographs by German photographer C.W. Rosset and accounts from figures like Pyrard reveal a remarkable consistency in the garment’s appearance, highlighting its historical and cultural richness.

Today, the Kasabu Bovalhu and the Dhivehi Libaas stand as symbols of Maldivian identity and hospitality. They exemplify the country’s historical openness to various cultures and its ability to weave diverse influences into traditional practices. Fathimath Naduha AbdulMuhsin’s ongoing efforts to preserve and teach the Kasabu Bovalhu ensure that this rich tradition remains a vibrant cultural melting point, blending tradition and innovation for future generations.