Written by: Jumana Shareef

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Ask around anywhere near the end of the holy month of Ramadan and you would hear the words “Kuda” Eid or “little” Eid on most people’s smiling lips. Modern times celebrate the occasion with a myriad of activities one can only do in groups such as family or friends. As a “guest”, you will always find a friendly face beckoning you to join festivities on this day. The activities of the day are truly a sight to behold even now. However, a journey through time would be better fitted to truly showcase the role of tradition steeped deep into the very fabric of this occasion. 

1602 

The air is filled with the happy sighs of women as they hand-stitched the final golden threads of libaas under the flicker of baththi (oil lamps). They have been working on this for a whole year after all. A French foreigner amongst them keenly stood, observing the frenzied ins and outs of the occasion even as twilight transcends into absolute darkness. You see, Francoise Pyrard de-Laval has possibly survived a shipwrecking, near-death illness and the ravages of climbing the social ladder of the court to arrive at this moment. The 30 something year old scribe of Maldivian history kept hearing distant calls of “Eid Mubarik”, even as he fell into his slumber that night. He will ask about it tomorrow. Having learned the language, he is no stranger to the locals gleefully explaining their strange traditions. 

Not even the first shred of a watery sun greets the city and the entire populace has convened at the designated area for prayer. As he fell in step onto the streets of Male’, the feeling of peace mixed with excitement in the air was palpable. “A short service” and sermon later, the streets were filled with the aroma of Attar (perfume oil) and scents. Freshly showered and excited citizens, all dressed in their best clothes gathered at the sides of a white cloth-laden pathway. The Sultan and his retinue made their way slowly from the prayer towards the Palace amid sounds of cannons fired drums, flutes, and musketry.

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Pyrard squinted his eyes and shielded it from the rising sun as he witnessed a bullock and ram being sacrificed before the king. Portions of this meat were soon being handed over directly by the Sultan to statesmen and those royally-favored. Even as Pyrard made his way back into his home, he saw tents being erected quickly and efficiently all around the city. You see, the Sultan has the honor of giving the first feast, followed by statesmen and other community leaders all around the Avah (districts).

These tents were erected along main roads with freshly laden white sand beneath. They were adorned with green palm leaves and beautiful fabrics possibly dyed with the reddish-purple Dhan'bu (Java plum). Not everyone gets a bite out of every tent however as there is a separation in class between grandees and civilians.

As evening neared and darkness descended, things got a bit more theatrical. One may not be able to distinguish between the ocean and land as massive parade floats mimicking battleships are seen across the streets. Actors dressed to the nines as foreign soldiers engaged in mighty battles with the “local vessels” amid sounds of glee and calls from gathered crowds. 

Closer to the palace he could see what appears to be several brave “fighters” jump and move around gracefully in their attacks in a mighty show of “combat”. All blows are caught expertly by the buckler shields and the sound of trumpets, flutes and drums fill the air. The Sultan and his court stay only for a short while before retiring for the night. Pyrard was told by his servant and mates that the festivities may last another day or two before he too, retired for the night, longing for rest and sojourn after plenty of food and conversation. 

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Whether you are celebrating Eid in the 17th or 21st century, the tradition of unity never escapes this occasion. Enjoying it in the city or closer to a local island is something you must experience at least once.